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Friday, December 31, 2010

Life as a Ships Superintendent and why the job Sucked


When I was sailing at sea as an engineer a hairdresser asked me what I do. So I replied “I am an engineer in the merchant navy”. A long silence ensued whilst the cogs turned and then she returned with “so what do you do when you are not fighting”. I replied with “we play cards”.

For the last three and more years I was a ships superintendent before I recently moved on and up the ladder to become a Marine Consultant based in Singapore. For three-years a myriad of people that I met never understood what it was that I did and turned the usual dull-grey look of non-comprehension as soon as I tried to explain.

I used to explain with: 

1.       I maintain a link between the ship and the shore. They typically reply with “but don’t they have a telephone and such-like nowadays? Or “so you do whatever the captain wants like an agent?

2.       I troubleshoot problems and find solutions. They typically reply with “but don’t they have a chief engineer”? Or “so you help the captain to find the problem”?

3.       I look after the ship and make sure that it sails in a safe, secure and environmentally friendly manner! They typically reply with “oh” or “so why do you have to travel so much”.

I eventually gave up trying. I imagine it is a bit like trying to explain to a donkey that if it went faster it would get there earlier!

There is no set answer. There is no pat all-conclusive, in a nutshell job description that builds immediate pictures in people’s minds.  Yes, a hairdresser’s cuts hair and talk inanely, a soldier trains to fight and then sometimes fights and dies, a pilot flies planes and sometimes walks up and down to the aisle to publicly groom his feathers (and so he should) and well, a superintendent, well, he erm, he ah, yes, interesting question, I think he superintends.

Recently, in my new job as a consultant I met another Superintendent and I was immediately struck by how ill he looked. He was doing a ships docking, the repair period in which the ship is taken out of the water, and over the course of the six weeks period I met him perhaps once a week and I could see him being worn down – chipped at by an invisible hammer. He smoked continuously, his eyes got redder and redder, his legs could hardly support him at the end he was a shell of the man he once was - he nearly cried with relief as the ship finally sailed over the horizon without him. 

The job is all-encompassing.  Ships are highly technical and are governed by laws that not only stem from national output but also international, visited countries, owners and charterers. The crews are typically not of the same nationality with each other or the company and the ship tends to be either at sea or in a foreign port when everything goes pear-shaped, not just around the corner. Ships work 24 hours a day and the ocean can cause allot of commotion! A conditions to become a superintendent is not formed from having once seen a ship sail past, a superintendent needs to have been at sea, to be technically knowledgeable and to be pro-active when time is found but certainly to be very reactionary.

 Patience is a virtue, speed is of the essence and an immediate ability to listen at the right moment and to completely ignore at another are all essential ingredients for a continued career.

The management ashore use the superintendent as their eyes and ears for the vessel. If something goes wrong they call the superintendent using their speed dials. If something happens on the ship the crew call their superintendents first, be it on speed dial, satellite phone or by pigeon if all else is failing. 

If the cook decides to chase after the second engineer with a meat cleaver instead of chopping up the beef like he normally does then the superintendent’s phone rings. He must find a solution in-between coping with the management ashore who ring every ten seconds and who suggest solutions that only confuse the situation (is the cook allowed to have a meat cleaver on-board?). If the engine fails as the ship is leaving port and the ship smacks into a gas tanker then the superintendent must have the foresight to wear oven gloves as he answers the phone.

 I remember one fine Christmas evening when a master called me on his satellite phone. He said “I’ve dropped the anchor”. I immediately replied with “yes, well done, why are you telling me”? It transpired that he had dropped the anchor right to the bitter end in three miles or more depth of water with an outside temperature of minus twenty. This was the only time that I lost my temper, I suppose because it was Christmas Eve but it was simply the whole stupidity of the situation – what did he expect me to do about it? Fly a helicopter out, jump in my personal submarine? He ruined my Christmas – he was inept yet by simply calling me on the phone he shifted the worry and responsibility onto my shoulders despite the fact that there was absolutely nothing that I could do to help him.

A superintendent will always answer the phone. He will offer solutions, he will listen to the invariably panicked and non-native English speaking master and/or chief engineer and whilst they are hammering away he will build a mental picture of where the ship is, what the cargo the ship is carrying, what dangers are lurking for the vessel and on-top of all that start to dream up possible scenarios for solution – whatever the disaster maybe. He will add to the picture with memorised data; horsepower of the engine; number of ballast tanks; type of steering gear; height of keel to mast; deadweight of the vessel; number of crew on-board and by the time he puts the phone down he will have an active plan to initiate a solution. And then invariably once the dust has settled he will jump on a plane to wherever the ship maybe and mop up the mess, be it smoothing things over with local authorities, paying bribes to corrupt officials to brush problems under the carpet or to arrange permanent overhaul and repair to some damaged equipment far up the Amazon river and without recourse to a spanner.

A superintendent is not always coping with disaster. There is some manner of routine to the position in which he monitors the vessels mechanical and budgetary progress, suggesting improvements, ensuring that spares are ordered and received in timely manner and of course ensuring that dry dockings are arranged and undertaken at the correct times and within budgets. But even here, when the dry docking actually occurs, the superintendent once again becomes the half-way house, the crew calling centre and the dry dock management shoulder to cry on as they mess some job up or delays plague the vessel.

A superintendent’s job lacks routine. It is a stressful job and one that can wear any normal human being down like sandpaper to an apple. It can though be heart-warming as well. To solve problems, to see a broken ship once again sailing, to find out that the repairs have been below budget, to see captains and chiefs smile when all is back to normal and to see the fruits of the labour the job is without doubt the icing on a very soggy, non-rising, stale and over-salted lump of cake.

The real highlight of the job is when the superintendent is actually able (between all the phones ringing) to be pro-active and to make something better on the ships (or ashore) that helps the crew in their job and that ensures that he receives one less-pathetic phone call further down the line. And undoubtedly, to visit a ship that is working well and to see a happy and cohesive unit in command is without doubt the icing on the cake. Sadly this does not happen very often.

The superintendent sees the sharp end and perhaps the grimy side of the business. He is of course ultimately responsible for a vessel and so will come from a marine background, not only to build the respect required from the vessels crew but to be able to talk to them and gain immediate understanding of problems without daft questions being sprouted forth or misunderstandings growing to unimaginable bean-stalk like proportions. But he must also and most importantly be able to counter-attack possible wrongly built pictures by the shore-based management (who are mostly not practically-minded enough to the extent that they are nothing more than a hindrance) and to do this in a non-offending way brought on by complete authority (rising conflict does not help) and showing of being in complete command of the situation.

The best superintendents are engineers who have sailed up the ranks for many years to Chief Engineer and who have moved ashore to climb another rank of the ladder, who perhaps want more from life and who want to be with the family more often. The problem here though is that the salary is typically abysmal. A taxi driver in London who works a normal day earns more than a superintendent and shipping companies get away with it through reliance on the fact that chief engineers wanting to move ashore are a dime a dozen.  And sadly superintendents have no common connection, no union to fight the cause so ……… a pay cut, oh, all right then!

A good Superintendent, given the leeway and the scope to look after his ships (which admittedly never happens) will produce economically viable platform’s for the company to make money on whilst conversely a poor superintendent will bring a ships budget to the next colour after red and all is brushed off as poor crew, a bad chief engineer, rising costs of spares and market variables.

In the three years as a superintendent I was never able to be fruitfully pro-active. Many of the ideas that I came up with to better the operational aspect of a vessel were dismissed by non-seafaring ranks in the office (it had to be them not me) and by seafaring ranks who hated to see somebody else have an idea that was not generated from behind a desk. I know that I did a good job – I saw the budget figures, I saw my vessels problem’s reducing and I have remained friends with many of the masters and chief engineers on-board who appreciated my never-ending assistance and ability to listen when the occasion demanded. I never shouted, I was always there for them! I have no reason to justify myself or my output; I would though suggest that many desk-bound managers would have to justify theirs.

After three years I decided that the office would never listen, that my salary was not going to rise above that of a deep-sea second engineer and that all companies are tarred with the very same brush. A change of career had to be looked at. This decision was enforced one day when I was invited to attend an office party to celebrate the opening up of the new offices. The managing director phoned down and I ended up being the chosen one to put a nail in the wall so that they could hang some (inanely expensive) picture on it. On that day I lost all respect for the management, I knew that they had categorised me as the handy-man, the hired help with a boiler suit on and so there was really no option left but to move on. I certainly could not join them.
It took a while but now I am now a Marine Consultant. My office does not suit pictures.

Perhaps I will now be talked down to by Marine Lawyers who will regard me as the boiler-suit wearing hired-help but at least I might get paid more than a superintendent gets, not much but enough to make the hard work and the endless travel bearable.

NEW YEAR in HAI PHONG VIETNAM

It is 1700 hours on the 31st December 2010 and I am in Hai Phong, Veitnam waiting for a ship to come in.

It is a strange feeling I have when considering the fact that over the last forty years or so and since I was first able to grasp that fact that clocks went round and that most people got blitzed on cheap wine at this exact time of the year, I am sitting here all alone and in a hotel that might only have only one other guest apart from myself.

I am imagining the evening ahead and the countdown to midnight. I will probably have something to eat shortly, an offering from the menu (spaghetti bolognaise perhaps?) and a glass of Heineken. I finished my last novel on the plane here; so a movie later? They like to voice-over movies here – western films have two sound tracks, one in Vietnamese narration the other with the original voices behind. It is possible to understand the English soundtrack but it does give headache as the ears work overtime. But HBO and Star World Channels are normal – perhaps I can watch RoboCop 11 or a Japanese Manja cartoon - yikes?

My feelings are certainly strange. I changed my job to spend more time with my family but …….. anyway, two years I say and then time to move on ……… but here and now I will simply enjoy the silence and the smiles of the Vietnamese (who consider me as a guest of honour as the other guest is a recluse) and spend the last day of this year sober and in bed before 10pm.

Tomorrow the ship comes in, I will do a survey/inspection and then be home on the 2nd January 2011 – slightly late but I never did have any resolutions anyway except that one that I never manage – to be home for New Year.
 
Waiter – service please!

Thursday, December 30, 2010

The Best Western Pearl River Hotel, Hai Phong in Vietnam



I am sitting in the Pearl River Hotel (Best Western) in Hai Phong, Vietnam wiaiting for a ship to come in. It is seasonally cold at 22 degrees (gets a little nippy in the evenings) and oh, so very quiet. So far I am the only patron of the establishment. Maybe a tour bus will pull up shortly and disgorge thirty red-faced and overweight Americans who will then proceed to noisily ruin all that was good, but I doubt it. It is perhaps poignant to state that Western New Year is just around the corner so apart from a couple of stray hippy nomads from Australia (and they prefer rock bottom priced wooden sheds for the night – can’t score in a good hotel now can we?) the tourism industry grinds to a halt.

When I checked in I was greeted by no less than four staff members who obviously welcomed the interruption to an otherwise undisturbed day. The restaurant where I am sitting now for a beer was silent, I’m sure I detected a layer of dust on the tables and no other customer looks to enter any time soon. I feel that the staff should be tipping me for gracing the place with my presence!

The hotel is very nice indeed. It is set back from Hai Phong in what looks to be like a “posh” residential area (the streets are tarmacked) and it is oh, so quiet outside too. Except that is for the house that is being built opposite. It is a quiet build, nothing metal or noisy about it and so it does not ruin the atmosphere and in fact gives life to the place.


The breakfast was included into the price. I expected it would be off-the-menu but they went to the enormous effort of putting out the buffet but it was obvious that it was only for me. There were four strips of bacon neatly laid out in the tureen, an incy-wincy bowl of baked beans (34 in total), the orange juice level in the enormous container was well, residing at the bottom and I had to lean the contraption precariously close to the edge to get anything to come out. Wow, they had everything there, all in miniature and right down to the extremely small French Loaf!

Nice hotel, pleasant and extremely friendly staff but wow, they must be bored.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A Return to the Rex Hotel, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

It is perhaps unusual for me to be in Vietnam before Christmas and again immediately after Christmas but that is beside the point. Suffice it to say that this year I managed to get home to be with my family on Christmas day but an urgent job arose that took me back North soon after.

Anyway, the point of this entry is to say that I am sitting in the lobby of the Rex Hotel after a hard mornings work whilst munching on some replica of a fast-food chain (a repeat prescription) .............. they've gone and put an enormous carpet under the tables now. No more strangled-cat noises if they move them yet I would have thought harder to do so  - they would need to be lifted up.

I would though like to mention that the removal of the Santas (Christmas Spirit now gone) must have also allowed them to shift the Piano and the tables completely around to create another design effect.

The Piano Player was also new and not quite as good as good as the last!

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

The Piano Player and I at the Rex Hotel, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam


I am in the Rex Hotel in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. It is a very fine establishment, slightly reminiscent of the Colonial Era (not that I was there) with more staff than rooms to cater to every whim of the un-assorted patrons. A great hotel with history and a pleasure to stay at!

I was sitting in the lobby cafe after a hard mornings work. I ordered a beer from a very nicely dressed yet extremely thin lady who poured the whole Heineken into my glass is one fell swoop. Luckily she turned away before the beer frothed over onto the table as I was in no mood for profuse apologies from twenty upset waitresses and forty hands mopping me dry.

Anyway, a very pretty lady was serenading the atmosphere with some chirpy piano playing. She played very well indeed but to little applause, apart from some passing tourists who had perhaps had imbibed a few too many drinks or were from America. I was eating a rare Ceaser Salad and an enormous plate of McDonalds look-a-like French Fries - just what the Doctor ordered - and passed the time in companionable (with the piano player) contemplation of life.

It seems that the Rex hotel has recently undergone a series of renovations and the lobby was the last to be finished with only the little things to be pieced together again. The large Santa’s had been moved outward and all that remained was for the fancy dividing bamboo railings to be placed between the lobby and the cafe and for some tables to be straightened out and into some sort of invisible regimental order. The waiter attacked the table first. He creaked and scratched the table in a somewhat embarrassed scraping shuffle about two inches away from the piano. The sound must have grated on the piano player who missed the beat temporarily but she quickly recovered her poise and continued onwards - a superb recovery!

Finally after much nerve-jangling, the table was in a satisfactory position and the waiter air-brushed an invisible speck of dust away before disappearing from sight.

I was debating whether to have some chilli sauce with the chips whilst appreciating the fact that the strong flavour might deteriorate away from the more delicate and subtle flavour of the roma lettuce when a waitress came along and clucked (I'm sure I heard this annoyance over the once again perfect piano music) and proceeded to shuffle the table two inches across the marble floor and back towards the piano. This movement once again created a cacophony of screeching and cat-like wailing that had the piano player playing faster than she had ever played in her life. Her delicate fingers were tripping over themselves in some sort of effort to compete – a live musical production of the Beauty and the Beast!

Silence at last returned. I eventually calmed my nerves down enough to be able to muse over the fact that endeavours that are done surreptitiously (in an effort to be unnoticeably quiet) are usually far worse than those done quickly! One quick and rapid table shuffle would probably have gone unnoticed - five minutes of achingly-loud, dry heavy wood scraping against solid and unforgiving marble grated heavily on the nerves. But they thought they were doing a good job, one that nobody was aware of so "let them be".

As I was supping on a second beer with thoughts to retire for an afternoon nap (brought about my previous hard work that morning) a waitress and a waiter (not the same ones) snuck out from behind a pillar and proceeded to completely re-arrange the table by splitting it up into two pieces and turning them to a 45 degree angle to the piano! This time it was worse than a strangled cat. This was an orgy of strangled cats! The poor piano player looked at me (our first and only contact), I shook my head and she stood up and walked away! I clapped silently for her effort.

Anyway, apart from the stretched-out noise opera I had an enjoyable lunch. The lobby was well decorated and certain effort had been placed on Christmas with white Santa’s at every corner and tastefully adorned Christmas trees to give spirit to the occasion. The hotel is a luxury for any tourist and I would gladly stay there again. The noise was simply something that was unusual, the culprits simply doing their job and doing it well and in the process giving me something to write about.

Funny thing though; as I was checking out of the hotel I passed the lobby cafe and happened to notice that the table had been moved again. I did not have a tape measure handy but it looked as if it had been placed back into the original position - just a little too close to the piano I thought.